We know that without regular water changes, the “good” bacteria will not be able to keep up with the accumulation of uneaten food or fish waste and the ammonia will quickly reach a dangerous level. And no matter what types of aquarium filter you have, you will need to regularly clean your aquarium. However, we should wait a couple of weeks before cleaning the aquarium filter.

Why wait? Actually I've explained it here. The major cleaning you just performed disturbed the beneficial bacterial colonies on the plants, rocks, and gravel. Fortunately many beneficial bacteria reside within the filter media, so you haven't completely upset the Eco-system. However if you changed the filter at the same time, you might trigger a dangerous ammonia spike because there aren't enough beneficial bacteria left to eliminate the toxins. That's why you should wait to clean the aquarium filter after performed the major cleaning your fish tank. Beyond that, cleaning hanging power filter regularly at least once a month will keep your fish healthy.

How To Clean a Hanging Power Filter :
OK! The list below are steps to clean a hanging power filter. It's only need 20 minutes to do so...

1. Have fresh filtration media, a small pitcher, and a bucket on hand before starting.
2. Place about two quarts of tank water in a small picture and set aside.
3. Turn the filter off and unplug the cord from the electrical outlet.
4. Gently lift the filter off the aquarium and place in a clean bucket.
5. Remove the sponge insert. If it is disposable, discard it and skip to step nine.
6. If the sponge insert is refillable, discard the filtration media inside it.
7. Place part of the tank water in a small bowl and gently rinse the sponge in it.
8. Refill the washed sponge insert with fresh media, close and set aside.
9. Remove any algae or lime deposits from the filter housing, and rinse thoroughly with fresh water.
10. Rinse the new or refilled sponge insert using the pitcher of tank water.
11. Place the rinsed sponge insert in the filter housing.
12. Hang the filter back on the aquarium.
13. Using a small cup partially fill the filter with tank water, then replace the cover.
14. Plug the filter in and turn it on. Voila! Clean filter.

Tips To Clean a Hanging Power Filter :

• If you use refillable inserts, be sure to seal the container of filtration media very tightly after each use.
• It's a myth that you should never replace the filter insert. Dirty filters that can no longer be cleaned thoroughly are unhealthy.

There are many different opinions as to how often a tank needs to be cleaned. In general, the more often you clean your aquarium, the healthier your fish will be. In new freshwater aquariums (less than 3 months) we recommend a 1/3 to ½ water change every two weeks. As the aquarium becomes older a water change once a month should be sufficient. We do not recommend you take more than ½ of the water out at any one time.

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Why should you clean your fish tank? In a balanced, stable aquarium uneaten food or fish waste turns into ammonia. “Good” bacteria then convert these pollutants into non-toxic “nitrates”. Without regular water changes, the “good” bacteria will not be able to keep up with the accumulation of uneaten food or fish waste and the ammonia will quickly reach a dangerous level. For that reason, no matter what type of filtration you have, you will need to regularly clean your aquarium.

Cleaning even a very dirty aquarium isn't all that hard when you know what to do. Here are the tools you'll need, and instructions for making your tank look beautiful again.

• Algae scraper/pad
• Razor blade (plastic blade for acrylic tanks)
• Bleach
• Water siphon
• Bucket
• Lime remover/glass cleaner (made for aquariums)
• Filter media
• Filter brush
• Old bath towels
• Paper towels

I suggest cleaning your fish tank in the following order:

• Inside glass
• Decorations (rocks, plants, etc)
• Gravel
• Outside glass and fixtures
• Filter

Filter Cleaning
Once the outside is clean, the rocks, plants, and other decorations may be returned to the tank. Now wait a couple of weeks before cleaning the filter. Why wait? The major cleaning you just performed disturbed the beneficial bacterial colonies on the plants, rocks, and gravel. Fortunately many beneficial bacteria reside within the filter media, so you haven't completely upset the Eco-system. However if you changed the filter at the same time, you might trigger a dangerous ammonia spike because there aren't enough beneficial bacteria left to eliminate the toxins.

When you are ready to clean the filter, should you clean or simply replace the filter media entirely? Some experts caution that replacing the filter media removes too many of the beneficial bacteria, and triggers a new tank break-in cycle. Other experts argue that sufficient bacteria reside on the rocks, plants, and in the gravel to prevent the tank from cycling when the filter is replaced. I believe what you should do depends on the type of filter media you use.

If you have filter media containing carbon, ammonia absorbers, or ion-exchange resins, it should be replaced if it's more than three weeks old. After a couple of weeks the absorbing qualities of the media have been exhausted, and it no longer serves it's purpose. Media that acts as a mechanical filter instead of absorbing toxins (i.e.: ceramic rings, filter fiber, or sponges) should be gently rinsed to remove debris and returned to the filter instead of replaced. If care is taken to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium water, and the media is quickly returned to the filter, the bacterial colonies growing on them will not be lost entirely.

Don't forget to clean the filter tubing and other parts of the filter assembly. A filter brush will help clear out the sludge that invariably builds up in all the small crevices.

Glass and Lime Cleaners
Once the inside of the aquarium is cleaned, clean the hood, light, tank top, and outside glass. Regular glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is toxic to fish. Standard lime cleaners are even more toxic. I strongly urge using vinegar or cleaners designated as aquarium safe, and rinse rinse rinse!

Siphon
Clean the gravel next, by using a water siphon to vacuum away the debris. There are several types of siphons available, all of which work essentially the same. My preference is the Python, because it draws dirty water directly into your sink, thus eliminating the need for buckets. Magnum makes an adapter for the Hot Pro unit that allows you to siphon water through the filter and return the water back to the tank. Although this removes larger debris, smaller particles will pass through the filter and are returned to the tank. Be sure to vacuum the entire surface of the gravel thoroughly so that all debris is removed.

Bleach
Once the inside glass is clean, remove rocks, artificial plants, or decorations that have significant algae growth, or are noticeably dirty. Do not clean them with soap or detergents. It's very difficult to completely remove soap, and even a trace can be lethal to fish. Usually a good scrub with an algae scraper will remove the algae and dirt from rocks and plants. For particularly stubborn cleaning problems, prepare a 10% bleach solution and soak the items for 15 minutes. Scrub any remaining residue off, rinse well in running water, and let air dry to eliminate residual bleach.

Live plants can bleached, however stem plants are not tolerant of bleaching. To bleach live plants prepare a 5% bleach solution, soak the plants for two to three minutes, then rinse well. Leave the rocks, decorations and plants out of the tank while you vacuum the gravel. That way none of the debris stirred up from the gravel will settle on them.

Tip - be sure to get a new bucket and designate it for aquarium use only. If you use a bucket that has had soap or detergent in it, you could introduce lethal chemicals to your tank.

Algae Pads/Scrapers
Start by giving the glass a good cleaning on the inside with an algae pad. There are a wide variety of algae scrapers on the market, from long handled scrubbers to magnetic scrubbers. I personally like small magnetic scrubbers, but virtually any algae pad will do. Is it necessary to purchase algae pads at a pet shop instead of the the housewares department of a regular store? Although they may look the same, the housewares pads can have soap or chemical residue. That reside doesn't matter if you are cleaning your kitchen sink, but it can be lethal to your fish.

For stubborn residue on the glass, use a razor blade to scrape it off. Take care not to cut yourself. If your aquarium is acrylic, use a plastic razor blade, as standard razors will scratch acrylic.

Ongoing Maintenance
Once you've gotten your tank in shape, make sure you clean it on an ongoing basis so it never needs a major spring-cleaning again. Scrape the glass weekly, vacuum the gravel every time you perform a water change, and clean any rocks or plants as soon as you see debris or algae on them. Clean the filter monthly, either by replacing the media, or rinsing it. While you are at it, soak your fish nets in a disinfectant solution to keep them clean and soft. By cleaning your fish tank regularly, your aquarium will look beautiful all the time.

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In many aquarists lives there comes a time when they have to get rid of an aquarium inhabitant that has outgrown its enclosure or has become too aggressive for its tank-mates. Most often the aquarium inhabitant is a fish, but it is not uncommon to hear of people who need to get rid of aquarium plant or algae as well. So, what you need to consider before trimming aquarium plants or removing fish from your planted tank?

It is important to understand that the plants and other aquarium inhabitants in planted tank probably did not come from the ecosystem you live in or near. If released or discarded in your local lakes, rivers or oceans, a foreign aquatic plants or tropical fish species can become extremely destructive. Get rid of aquarium plants or algae can compete with and overgrow indigenous plants and eliminate the indigenous population, which may have been a staple food source for a local animal. The rest of trimming can also lead to a change in water chemistry, which may affect plants, fish or other animals that live in that body of water. Foreign plants and aquarium algae can also completely clog bodies of water and eliminate habitats for animals to live in.

Introducing a non-native fish to a body of water can be devastating as well. If it is a predatory species, it may be large enough to eat an indigenous fish that may have previously been at the top of the food chain in that particular habitat. It also may be too large to be eaten by any other indigenous predators. With no natural predators in its new home it will be dangerous because the foreign fish may eat most or all of the native species.

If should to trimming aquatic plants or remove other living organism from your planted aquarium, please do so responsibly. Try contacting the local fish store. They may be interested in taking in unwanted plants and animals. If they cannot, try posting your aquatic plants or animal on public forums, such as aquarium related forums or "Craig’s list".

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Carbon is the backbone of all life. Each organic molecule in every living organism predominantly carbon based. Given this simple fact, it becomes clear why the carbon dioxide (CO2) plays a key role in the planted aquarium. Aquatic plants extract CO2 from their environment and to employ in a process called photosynthesis. Photosynthesis combines CO2, water and light energy to produce simple carbohydrates and oxygen (O2).

The growth rates of aquatic plants are strongly dependent on the availability of carbon and plant affinity for carbon intake. Studies have shown that plants with the highest affinity for carbon were highest growth rates, while those with lower carbon affinity have adequate slower growth rates. Because carbon availability is usually the limiting factor for growth, addition of CO2 injection system to a planted aquarium will always result in large increases in growth (assuming other critical elements are missing).

At no additional CO2 growth rate will depend on the speed at which atmospheric CO2 equilibrates into the water. CO2 will dissolve in CO2 free water to a degree that depends on the content of the air pressure, temperature, pH and bicarbonate / carbonate from the water. The final concentration of CO2 in water depends entirely on those factors. Once that concentration is achieved, the level of CO2 will not change unless the plants remove it or one of the other factors is altered.

The plants remove CO2 at a rate significantly higher than the rate at which it equilibrates in water. Thus, the amount of CO2 usage, plant limits its growth using all the available CO2. Because CO2 is an integral part of the bicarbonate buffer system, the decline in CO2 will necessarily lead to an increase in pH. As the pH increases, the influx of additional atmospheric CO2 will be reduced by its conversion to bicarbonate.

This is offset somewhat by hard water plants that can utilize bicarbonate directly. However, without routine water changes or buffer additions (Alkaline Buffer™ or Liquid Alkaline Buffer™), this path will eventually lead to complete depletion of the KH (carbonate hardness) which will result in dramatic pH swings from day to night (5.7 - 9.6).

CO2 injection bypasses this predicament by delivering a constant source of CO2. Because the introduction of CO2 will lower pH, you have two options: (1) Monitor and calibrate the rate of CO2 addition to precisely match the usage by the plants or (2) use a pH feedback metering system, such as a pH controller. Option (2) is ideal because as the pH falls below a certain point, the CO2 turns off, thus avoiding catastrophic pH drops.

If you are not quite ready for the initial investment in a CO2 injection system but would still like to enjoy some of the benefits of adding additional carbon into your aquarium aquascapes, there is an alternative: Flourish Excel™. It provides a simple organic carbon molecule (similar to what is described above in the photosynthesis discussion) that plants can use as a building block for more complex carbohydrates. Because Flourish Excel™ is an organic carbon source, it does not impact pH. Even if you are already using CO2, you can still obtain a cumulative benefit by using Flourish Excel™ in conjunction with CO2.

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To keep nature aquarium clean and healthy, water requires oxygen. A lack of oxygen caused water quality deterioration such as black and smelly water. Oxygen is essential for the breathing of fish, aquatic plants and microorganisms. Filtration bacteria, in particular, are sensitive to dissolved oxygen levels in water, and lack of oxygen easily leads to oil film occurrence and water quality deterioration. If the oxygen level decreases further, the condition of the fish and shrimps will also be affected. Carry out daily aeration to prevent lack of oxygen.

The best way to prevent low oxygen level related fish kills and lack of growth is to add supplemental aeration. The following is a list of facts you need to know from aquajournal.net presented in a photo illustration to find out how you can prevent lack of oxygen in the nature aquarium by aeration.


1. Small pieces of plants are produced through aquatic plant pruning.
2. The water suction part is clogged with those small pieces of plants, causing a decline in the flow rate.
3. Remove accumulated dirt and dust early.
4. Flow rate recovers once the water suction part is cleaned, allowing oxygen to reach all parts of the filtration system.

Aeration is a process of supplying oxygen to water and an air pump is usually used for this purpose. Use of an air pump also has a benefit in that it can be controlled with a timer. The NA Control Timer is equipped with an outlet for an air pump to allow the air pump turn on when the lighting and CO2 injection are turned off. This timer-controlled aeration is effective for promoting removal of residual CO2 in water that was left unconsumed by photosynthesis. If residual CO2 passes through the filter for a long period, bacteria may be damaged with an antiseptic effect on the CO2; however this problem may be prevented by starting aeration immediately after the light is turned off.

Furthermore, aeration may not be sufficiently effective if only a small amount of fine bubbles are produced. Optimal effectiveness may be obtained when an adequate amount of relatively large bubbles is generated to promote a gas exchange between air and water.

The Pollen Glass for AIR has a diffusing surface with coarser mesh compared with the Pollen Glass for CO2; in this way the aeration effect is maximized without placing a burden on the air pump. The diffusion rate of oxygen is extremely low in water; thus the use of water flow is necessary in order to sufficiently spread oxygen all over the tank.

In the case of a deep aquarium, the water flow rate is low at a deeper portion near the substrate, sometimes causing water stagnation. Bubbles actively produced by Pollen Glass for AIR also have an air lift effect. A Pollen Glass for AIR placed at a deeper portion in the aquarium creates a moderate upward water flow, which reduces water stagnation near the substrate.

Among the Pollen Glass series, Pollen Glass Beetle for AIR has a wide diffusing surface and is suitable for aeration for large aquarium. It is free from the problem of a bent tube and is thus ideal for installation in a deeper part of an aquarium. The use of this device helps keep a large aquarium in good condition.


5. Slightly lift the Lily Pipe P to fix it.
6. Take in air at the water surface to dissolve oxygen into water.
7. Pollen Glass for AIR of the same shape as for CO2.
8. The Backwater valve is also crucial for Pollen Glass for AIR. Connect it to an air pump with a silicon tube.


9. Plug in to the outlet for the air pump.
10. The air pump turns on when the light turns off.
11. The Pollen Glass for AIR has coarser diffusing surface to actively produce larger-sized bubbles containing oxygen.
12. It also has the effect of reducing water stagnation near the substrate.

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